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does concrete stick to aluminum foil

Easy! It works very well, it will make the floor feel warmer and I’ve had good results with it. There are numerous products being sold today that are typically a combination of rigid foam insulation and some type of sub-floor material like OSB. 6. Won’t the dozens of metal screws penetrating the XPS into the concrete conduct the heat away from the PEX layer and the finished floor above? All structure should sit on the foundation, NOT foam. I will (next year after I’m sure the floor is pretty much dried out) be putting a raised floor in the workshop area. Would you still recommend the sealer you used? That is pretty easy to do. What a product, and what helpful people on the phone! For around $60.00 (there was not a lot of square footage) I would certainly do it again! If you found the site useful I’d love to have you help me out by either LIKE’ing our Facebook Page or signing up for our Newsletter. Good luck. The idea here is to give good separation between concrete and other building materials that might be conducive to mold and mildew. It just won’t work well, too much bounce. If you decide to go forward post a pic. LLPT Aluminum Black Foil Tape 2 Inches x 55 Yards 3.94 Mil High Temp Heavy Duty Adhesive HVAC Sealing Hot Cold Air Duct Tape for Pipe Metal Repair (BF255) 4.4 out of 5 stars 338 $16.99 Good luck. It’s just always a worry that the moisture will be a problem. I can’t just leave it “open” correct? I took 5 days. This would save me the $$ on the shot blaster, leveling and a subfloor product. Also, there is old vinyl flooring which is (mostly) intact. By Todd Fratzel on Basements, Foundations, Insulation. Having said that, we’ve built lots of commercial buildings without radiant and without a sub-floor. I would follow their recommendations pretty closely, if they say no poly then I’d skip it. The foam dents slightly when we stand on it now, with no laminate floor in it. or, waste of money and i should just reuse the existing fiberglass? it’s my understanding cripple walls are more prone to failure in seismic events; therefore, i am planning to do a seismic retrofit of the basement cripple walls. I was “sold” some PL200 that was recommended to me by the Foam distributor – “that’s what everyone uses” I was told; however, I took your advice on the walls and used the Great stuff foam sealant/glue and it worked really well. or, waste of money? You said they're holding up well for now, how long have you currently been living with them? This would be better than having a bunch of pressure treated wood under that floor in my opinion. No I mean how do end the xps in order to seal it? I’d but the foam tight to the wall. This method works great if you don’t have many doors and you can deal with the higher sub-floor at the stairs. So I gave up on the XPS idea and went with Dricore. We have had record rainfall for the last couple of months and overall for the year and not a drop (knock wood) in the basement. I'm interested in hearing the answer too. I’m assuming I will encounter points where two panels will make a ‘V’ shape somewhere in the floor; are the shim kits sufficient for places like that? Yes I’d do the floor first. Which approach would you go with? any signs of excess moisture? Then frame on top of the Dricore as per their recommendations. 1. If you apply in thin multiple layers you should be fine. I would! Ed – That approach certainly should cut down on some moisture. Just so i understand your method for the insulated sub floor, its 1″ Styrofoam, then 3/4″ treated decking sleepers, then 3/4″ advantech (or other sub-floor material), then finished flooring, is that correct? You’ll need to adjust accordingly. You can order them online at http://www.homedepot.com. The big box stores around here, Northern Utah, definitely don’t have anything, and the lumberyards don’t seem to carry anything other than the more exotic, expensive, hardwoods for decking. I was considering putting Delte-FL between the foam board and the concrete to better handle moisture should that become a problem (I plan on using 2″ XPS). The heat reactivates the glue. Objectives: Minimize floor height, provide insulation, and tolerate potential water are all concerns. You’ve discovered the epic battle all of us engineers face. Disregard this comment. lowes and other stores sell concrete stain to add to the concrete..its usually located where they sell the bags of concrete. However the floor is a bit more difficult. So here is something I have been thinking about. So sure, 3/4″ will work, less R value but still way better than no insulation. 5) Should I use a vapor barrier? Did the mix drying in the bucket become a problem? wouldn’t this then also allow cold air in? Obviously the more foam the better R value. We recommend using 3/4″ thick pressure treated decking. Frankly most plywood is quite stable and unlikely to move much so it’s not a huge concern. You’ll have zero problems heating that floor in this fashion. Could install the high density foam in those areas, then be sure to screw the 3/4″ floor down very well, probably 12 to 18 inch centers, in addition I’d probably use an underlayment like Schluter Mat. Leaving the furnace room unfinished is very typical. Some folks choose the sleepers because they want to ensure that the plywood is attached to something else vs trying to attach it directly to the concrete. These cookies do not store any personal information. Yes, but don't worry it does go quick. Don’t you love all the opinions you get? Hi Todd, I’m looking to finish my basement (w/ no water issues) using the foam board insulation and framing recommendations you’ve made along with a Dricore subfloor with carpeting. In some cases with extra loading (pool table for example) you can purchase the stronger version but for typical room it’s not necessary. I’m a huge believer in following specifications. But I was reading some other blog not to use it because pressure would build up and shift the foundation. We do however have an insulated panel to offer. Then did batt insulation and vapor barrier and then drywall. Most common damage to metal-leafed surfaces is in the form of abrasion, as the soft metal foil is literally rubbed off by use or housekeeping. From there you can simply screw walls into the sheathing as long as they are non-load bearing walls. You can actually buy DOW Highload foam that has a compressive strength of 100 psi vs the normal 25 psi if you’re concerned about the pool table weight. We used to get water in one corner during rainstorms but believe that replacing the driveway has resolved that problem (no water in past 18 months), at least for now. At the very least I would highly recommend using AdvanTech as the sub-floor as it’s manufactured to deal with water and moisture. It’s nearly impossible to get the foam and plywood to sit plat, especially thin plywood like that. – How much will more or less floor insulation impact heating requirement and comfort? This kitchen looks much brighter, very attractive. I painted those. 2″x4″ studs framed against XPS and filled with unfaced fiberglass insulation and finished with 1/2″ drywall. I’ll be putting it 1/4″ away from the wall foam and framing over the top. I also need to frame walls on top. The code requires that stair heights match within a certain tolerance. i am using 3/4 tongue and groove plywood (not advantech). For me the key is always sealing the foam properly. There is some load bearing framing in the basement. With barricade should I do the floors first and then build the walls on top of it or walls first then barricade up to the wall? I used a primer then Sherwin Williams top of the line paint for slick surfaces. I have a very low ceiling; 7′-2′ from ceiling to slab (and 6′-7″ where the main HVAC trunk line runs thru). So, what do you think of each of the following subfloor options for a bamboo finish? Any Idea what to use to seal it with? This leaves an air gap between concrete and plywood, instead of locked in with foam. I am worried about what happens to water that otherwise makes it past the waterproofing strategy used throughout the basement (or should a toilet overflow, fish tank leak, etc). Depending on what you want to use for flooring it’s likely you’ll need to fill in the low areas. I am removing drywall from finished, uninsulated stud walls in my basement and will have closed cell spray foam applied. Since reading about your recommendations for Advantech, I’ve done a bunch of research and talked to their technical department. I think you could make it work. I’m looking to frame walls in my basement but also put down rigid foam. Thank you for your time and site! What is the best way to deal with the 9′ walls to minimize wasted material? The difference in height from the high point to the low point is about 1-3/4 inches. The reality is I’m skeptical of most adhesives. If it were my house I’d remove it and install XPS or Foil Faced PolyIso in the rim joist area. The 1″ thickness is mostly due to what’s considered practical. Having said that, if you have it, don’t mind doing the work, then it can’t hurt. It seems the original owner intended on using this room as a garage. 3. should i also insulate my wall sitting on the floating subfloor going up to the joists, or is this overkill or would it have issues with condensation or anything like that? 2. I would insulate any walls that you can afford to do. Our furnace is in the corner of the basement. (Vapor barrier towards the warm side???) Norm – Thanks for your kind words. Leave 1/8″ gap at most. :) I’m a licensed structural engineer as well and I really don’t see an issue with it. This brand does not come in colors to my knowledge, only the concrete grey color. For really dry basements you can put the foam directly down. I actually found it very relaxing too!! Local building supply companies don’t carry high compressive strength xps. It is noticable and I’d like to fix it. I was going to put down 6-mil poly on the basement floor and then the 1/2″ XPS and then the Advantatech. Could,you use this concrete over old small tiles son journey kitchen counters? Is this safe for laying/putting food on, then eating? They look great. I just want to confirm that I don’t need the 1/4″ gap anymore since the wall foam board will go on top of it. – While I appreciate your friends concern, I’d say that XPS typically doesn’t compress much, so the sleepers likely will not suck down in a very uneven fashion as he might suppose. 2) I am considering adding the pex tubing for in floor heat throughout the basement. No need for a PT plate with this product. Would the 3/4″ be ok? 2. Can I just tile over painted floor with tapconing down backerboard after scuffing paint with sandpaper and thinset over it? Not trying to repeat questions here..(I did read the whole page!) i assume you’re implying that i shouldn’t seal the gap between concrete and plywood so that air/moisture can pass through. So how did you do it? Much appreciated! 3. I run their design-build division that specializes in custom homes, commercial design-build projects and sub-divisions. My question is I am going to be building a new house with a walkout finished basement should I put insulation underneath concrete or am I wasting my money? In most cases 1″ will make a decent impact on the cold and not create too many issues with regard to floor/ceiling height changes. That’s why I’m leaning more towards something that allows a bit through rather than sealing it with a full vapor barrier like I did the walls. Phil – I can tell you we’ve done several basements this way and they all have worked very well. Lots of your question is best answered by your local building official. I occasionally get some moisture from the subfloor, probably 1″ concrete in some areas, but nothing that create puddles. The fine line between a perfect world on a piece of paper and the reality of construction. @ Betty – The floor guys don’t care much about the wall issues! The method is quite simple consisting of a layer of foam board insulation, sleepers and a plywood sub-floor (see diagram above). My plan after I get this done is to use XPS foam board and seal up like you explain on your website. I think as long as you put down the foam and seal the seams well there will be no issue. Congratulations to you for making it a fantastic resource and actually caring to answer people’s questions. We added a concrete sealer, let dry overnight and then a layer of topcoat for shine. I’d really appreciate your expertise. If you’re planning on finishing a basement or portion of your home that has a concrete floor then it may be a good idea to insulate it before installing basement flooring. Thanks for the quick response! 1. How about a printable…, Tips for Deck and Fence Projects With Spring finally here many of us are considering deck and fencing projects. How would you address sloping floors using this subfloor method? 6. I’m thinking you might want to install a sump pump to lower the water level. 3. There’s a huge difference for each type of wall. Or is there a higher R value you would suggest? For the texture, I think if you applied the final coat with a bigger trowel (and a slighter thinner mix) you could certainly get a more "poured" concrete feel. Again you could try ramping it. So concrete frankly likes water! Our... Do you have heavily textured or popcorn ceilings and you don’t want the hassle of removing it? I dont want to use spray foam on the walls becasue if I have to take it off for any reason … I heard its hard to come off… What’s your option on that too? Just to clarify I will not put insulation on floor, but Should I install the 2″ XPS on the wall first? Or, does it matter? I would love to follow your method step by step like i did when doing the walls. I have a couple questions about insulating floors. There is also no bathroom in the basement, and I will be adding a sewer pump and piping in the floor for that. Good to hear--thanks for the quick response! I would then top it off with 3/4″ plywood as a finish floor and skip any more vapor barrier since it’s down there (below the cement) anyways. Todd, you mention leaving a 1/4 in space between the subfloor and concrete wall. Not really an option and it shouldn’t really cause a moisture problem. Do you still need to put down a poly vapor barrier underneath or can they be applied to concrete? 4)for the utility room that has furnace and a storage room, would you reco I just stop the sublfoor in those areas at the partition walls, or try and install into those rooms. There is a gap it looks like for the water to go down. 1. And if it dries too quickly you can sand and redo. There is some literature that suggests that 2 inches of XPS foam may in fact be a semi permeable although I think the amount is negligible. So…do you need a barrier on top? How does it match up against the dricore? 4) xps on floor and walls – what should I do first? You want a solid surface for the tile. I’m not familiar with bluwood. I know with the XPS you are supposed to fill the gaps along the perimeter with spray foam, the barricade instructions say to leave a half inch gap against the walls should I spray foam it as well? Im not afraid of hard work… Also our basement is dry should I use plastic under the XPS on the floor would it cause an issue like you have said for the walls? Is that an acceptable subfloor? Yes, I had 20 ft and ended up with 15% left in the box. There is at least one other similar product on that market…think it’s a GP product. or there any additional steps i need to take to make sure tiles would work ? http://greenguard.pactiv.com/residential.aspx#xps-insulation-board.xps-insulation-board. However I am not sure if I want to insulate the concrete floor or install a floor as the basement is a computer lab/storage room/workout room. Do you want to insulate the floor? I wouldn’t bury the drain, I’d extend it if possible and put in a floor drain plug. – Day 3 install new header beam and hangers. If you look at the rated pressure for foam board insulation and you compare to code floor loading it works fine. I think your approach is a good solution. I wanted to pass an idea by you…kind of a variation on the sleeper method to save some head room. I am starting the design process and hoping you could help with a few questions. Thank you. 1. Same process foe the edges?? On top of the fiberrock, I would lay cheap laminate that can be replaced if it gets damaged due to water. I’d just install the foam board and move on. Essentially, the author recommends that when finishing a basement, adhere to the following method for the floor: 1. If you have a wider door they may specify an engineered lumber header. Do I have to level it or can I go with the slope as it is flat without ridges etc? There is so much info and so many variations of how things can be done, I’m have a problem making a decision/understanding. Did you replace tile on the wall -- "before" photos shows a top and bottom row of black tile... Good catch! Glad you’ve found the site useful. do i overlap the spray foam directly on the plywood, or will this introduce a path for moisture to try to escape (note: i’m planning on using non-treated plywood since it will not be in contact with concrete)? (removed) My question is about the plywood. I’m not too concerned about the concrete, but I am concerned about odor down the road. 1. Both worked great. What doesn’t make sense to me is that I’d have to make holes through the advantech and the POLY to secure it to the floor, thus created gaps in the poly. So…letting it dry inward means letting it expose water vapor to finished flooring materials. I won’t disagree – you are the expert …. Keep in mind that the layers build up with the product, and the countertops would wind up pretty thick. Prior to reading this, I was debating thermostat-regulated electrical radiant heat. Foam board (blue board, pink board) actually have a fairly high compressive strength when they are sandwiched between two products such as the concrete below and plywood above. We did about 4 layers in total. I have a high top round table we use on our back porch and the Formica has started buckling. If I use these panels do they need to be secured to the concrete? It really comes down to R value. Another solution is installing the foam, then using different thickness sleepers to take out the pitch. Victoria – I highly respect most of their work. Do you want to remove the furnace? Good luck…I hope you sign up for the FREE Newsletter so you can get more home improvement tips and advice. Thanks!! Your clarification would be helpful. First off sealers like that are ok as an “added” insurance at best. Never know when you might need it. It will likely require 4 to 6 screws per sheet. I am hoping to be able to leave the current stud wall in place. 5. The only reason I am considering 3/4″ is because nobody seems to stock 1″ in T&G anywhere near me and they won’t special order it because they have to buy it in pallets of 48. Install pressure treated sleepers. They have been holding up really well for the time they have been in use. Underlayments typically imply that there is some sort of sub-floor below them. I like to do the walls first but that’s me, no really difference. With this approach I could level and insulate the floor while losing minimal headroom, but I am concerned about moisture in the sleepers if used directly against poly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. I have tile in a small bathroom. Find Remodeling Contractors. Moisture isn’t an issue with xps when it’s thick enough so using the Delta-FL frankly is added expense for really no gain and it adds more overall height. I will use tapcoms to secure the walls to the floor. How To Insulate Basement Walls Insulating a basement properly is rather challenging in cold climates. Thank You again for all of your time and expertise. do you need to seal? Glue is not necessary. Thanks for the suggestion Todd. I don’t know really……. Thoughts? Good luck. In looking through NH codes, I found that NH’s code is 7′ minimum (https://www.concordnh.gov/DocumentCenter/View/9288), so I may be in luck. All of it really depends on budget and personal preference. 2. Lets say that I want dryness first and comfort next Does 6 mil poly, 3/4 foam, and plywood sound ok?

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